How to choose the best oil for your skin type
How to choose the best oil for your skin type? Should I use a face oil at all?
Nowadays we have a huge variety of face oils available to us, each with their own specific composition and properties. So it is normal to feel a little lost when trying to find the right face oil. And what works for one person’s skin may not work for another. Here is how to find the best oil for your skin type.
When selecting an oil for your skin type, you must know that there are three main categories of natural oils. Depending on the type of fats it contains an oil can be considered “wet”, “dry”, or “semi-dry”. It is important to match the face oil to your skin type, otherwise you might ruin your skin. Using a wet oil on oily skin for example, is an acne-disaster waiting to happen!
Natural oils are good for the skin
Don’t give up on face oil just because it’s complicated! Natural oils can nourish, help regenerate and even heal the skin.
But be careful: despite the fact that most natural oils get the label “suitable for all skin types” and “well tolerated product” this is not always true! There is one main factor that determines whether an oil is suitable for you: the dryness of the oil. Some oils absorb quickly into the skin, while others remain longer on the skin’s surface, making it feel oily.
Natural oils can be divided into three main categories:
Dry oil: contains more than 50% polyunsaturated fatty acids
Semi-dry oil: contains between 20% and 50% polyunsaturated fatty acids
Wet oil: contains less than 20% polyunsaturated fatty acids
The higher the content of polyunsaturated fatty acids (like omega-3 and 6), the faster the oil dries on your skin. So the more polyunsaturated fatty acids it contains, the more “dry” an oil is.
The more oily, shiny or impure your skin is, the more you should gravitate towards the dry face oils. These tend to absorb better and feel lighter on your skin.
On the other side, the more dry, chapped, or older your skin is, the more you should go for a wet face oil. Wet oils tend to be a little heavier but they also form a better barrier on your skin and are better at trapping the moisture in.
It is important to realise that your skin type can change over time. Also keep in mind that every skin is different, and can react differently to the various face oils.
Dry oils:
Drying oils contain more than 50% polyunsaturated fatty acids. They are absorbed quickly and do not leave the skin greasy.
These face oils are best for people with oily, shiny or impure skin. Due to their light consistency, they can be used as a base for make-up as well.
Some of the most popular dry face oils include grapeseed oil, pomegranate seed oil, strawberry oil, chia seed oil, rosehip oil, and primrose oil. So there are plenty of options to choose from!
Here is a list of the most important dry oils for your skin:
Black seed oil
Borage oil
Chia seed oil
Emu oil
Goji Berry oil
Grapeseed oil
Jojoba oil
Kukui nut oil
Perilla oil
Pomegranate seed oil
Raspberry seed oil
Rosehip oil
Sea Buckthorn oil
Strawberry seed oil
Watermelon seed oil
Wheat germ oil
Some oils, like Abyssinian and Sesame oil, can also be considered dry oils. Whether or not this is the case depends on the brand and on other environmental factors.
Semi-dry oils:
Semi-dry oils contain around 20% to 50% polyunsaturated fatty acids. These oils are most suitable for normal to combination skin. But they might clog the pores of people with oily skin.
Here is a list of the most important semi-dry oils for your skin:
Abyssinian oil
Amaranth oil
Amla oil
Argan oil
Baobab oil
Camellia oil
Castor oil
Desert date oil
Hemp seed oil
Poppyseed oil
Sesame seed oil
Tamanu oil
Wet oils:
Wet natural oils contain less than 20% polyunsaturated fatty acids. These oils typically take longer to absorb and leave a protective film on the skin. They can make your skin feel moist and nourished, but might feel greasy sometimes.
Wet oils are recommended for dry and mature skin. They can also be beneficial to people with other skin types in winter. These oils tend to form a protective barrier against all kinds of environmental damage.
Here is a list of the most popular wet oils for your skin:
Avocado oil
Sweet almond oil
Oat kernel oil
Coconut oil
Macadamia oil
Marula oil
Moringa oil
Neem oil
Mango oil
Pumpkin oil
Laurel berry oil
Manketti oil
Why use face oils?
Natural oils can help soften the skin and restore the skin barrier. This could prevent dry, itchy and irritated skin. In addition to that they usually also contain many antioxidants, which help against damage from free radicals. Many natural oils also contain other potentially active compounds that can help restore our skin health and help with wound healing.
Natural oils also contain lots of fats that can nourish the skin.
Who should use face oil and who should avoid it?
Anyone, as long as there are no health issues, can use a face oil, you just need to make sure you choose the right one for your skin. It is important to keep in mind that your skin’s needs can change depending on your hormone levels and on environmental factors, such as the season. It is completely possible that during some days of the month your skin will feel more dry and will need a wet oil, while on other days you would need more neutral or dry oils.
If you don’t like to use oils, or your skin does not react well to them, there is no problem with just using a moisturiser instead. For people with very dry skin, it might be a good idea to use an oil under their moisturiser though. If you do that, you don’t necessarily need to use a wet oil, because the moisturiser will be forming the final protective layer on your skin.
Differences between using dry and wet oils on the skin
The main difference between wet and dry oils is how quickly the skin absorbs them. Some oils absorb fast and leave the skin feeling extra soft and non-greasy. On he other side, oils that are very rich, tend to absorb slowly and leave your skin greasy.
Generally speaking the fast-absorbing dry oils tend to get absorbed deeper into the skin. But keep in mind, a slow-absorbing wet oil can be an excellent lip balm. Its is most effective when applied just before bedtime. This way it can slowly nourish your lips while you sleep.
Is oil better than moisturiser?
The short answer is no. While oils can help moisturise and soften, they are not as good as moisturisers at preventing water loss from the skin. Even though some oils, like jojoba oil, do help against water loss, moisturisers usually do a much better job at locking moisture in your skin.
Especially if you live in a dry climate, face oil is probably not going to be enough to keep your skin hydrated. Having said that, oils often contain many antioxidants, fats that nourish the skin, and other potentially active ingredients. So they are certainly not worthless, when you compare them to moisturisers.
If you live in a humid climate though, and do not like the feeling of a heavy moisturiser on your skin, a face oil might be all you need.
Moisturiser = oil + humectant + occlusive ingredients
Many moisturisers already contain oil. When you use a moisturiser that contains oil, you are not only putting oil on your face, but you also benefit from the other ingredients specialised at hydrating and maintaining the skin barrier.
It is a common misconception that face oils lock in the moisture and should be used as the last step in your skincare routine. Truth is, although some oils (but not all oils) can lock some moisture in, moisturisers are better at this. Moisturisers contain special occlusive ingredients. The main purpose of these is to form a protective barrier and lock in the moisture.
If you decide to use both face oil and moisturiser on your skin, make sure to apply the oil first. You want the antioxidants and other beneficial ingredients in the oil to get the chance to sink in as much as possible. Then you seal everything with the moisturiser on top. If you apply the moisturiser first, the occlusive ingredients in the oil would prevent the antioxidants in the oil from getting into your skin.
Clean cosmetics
It is true, that whereas moisturisers often contain all kinds of preservatives, face oils usually don’t. The problem with that is, that most of the natural face oils have a very short shelf life, and once the compounds in the oil start to break down, they can be very irritating for your skin. So be careful with that!
Having that said, natural oils are usually much cheaper than moisturisers. And don’t forget, you can use them in addition to moisturisers for an extra soft and hydrated skin.
How to use a face oil for best results?
Simply selecting the best face oil for your skin type is not enough. You must also know how to incorporate it in your skincare routine the right way.
There are five main ways you can use face oils:
Use face oils to prevent dehydration of the skin.
Apply face oils to help moisturise the skin.
Use face oils as a part of your cleansing routine.
Apply them to treat flakey or peeling skin.
Other ways you can use oils.
This is how to use natural face oil to prevent dehydration of the skin:
If you want to prevent dehydration of your skin, for example before a bath or shower, massage some oil onto your skin before that. Not only will the oil work against dehydration and limit the drying effect of cleansers, but it will also start to break down the sebum trapped in your pores and help wash it off later. It is best to give the oil a few minutes to sink into your skin, before you start to bathe. Be careful not to use too much and not to slip in the shower though!
How to apply face oils to help moisturise the skin:
If you want to use face oils to help moisturise your skin, the best way is to combine it with a regular moisturiser. For best results, you should apply oil on your face when your skin is still damp after a shower and apply the moisturiser on top of that.
Alternatively, you can also mix the two in your hands and apply them together. The oil will add its fats, antioxidants and other beneficial ingredients and the moisturiser will help to seal that into your skin and trap the hydration inside.
If you live in a humid climate though and you don’t have problems with dry skin, a face oil may be all you need. Especially a dry face oil, that absorbs fast into the skin and does not feel heavy or greasy may be a good option here.
How to use face oils as part of your cleansing routine:
The best way to incorporate a natural face oil into your skincare routine is to use as the first step in double cleansing. This is one of the best ways to cleanse your face and avoid drying or irritating your skin at the same time.
The idea is that using oil on your face, will help loosen and lift excess sebum from your pores. When you use a water-based cleanser after that, it will be able to clean the pores of your skin more deeply.
It is also a very good way to remove makeup, because makeup often contains ingredients that are better soluble in fat. Using oils in this way can also be beneficial for the so called “good” bacteria that live on your skin.
How to use face oils to treat flakey or peeling skin:
Oils can be super effective, when it comes to treating flakey or peeling skin. It can really help to not only hydrate and soften, but also to smoothen and improve the appearance of the skin. Whereas moisturisers usually can’t do this and sometimes make such skin look even worse.
If your skin is peeling, you should not peel it any further. Otherwise you risk damaging the barrier function of your skin even more and leave it more prone to dehydration and inflammation. Oils can really reduce the appearance of such peeling skin and make it less likely for you to peel it.
Other ways you can use oils:
There are many other ways you can use natural oils! You can use oils on your hair, nails, feet and generally almost anywhere on your body. But since this post is about using oils on your face, let’s discuss the final way to use oil on your face.
Natural oils can be very nourishing for your lips. They are most effective as a night treatment. Massage a very small amount of your chosen oil on your lips (and try not to eat it). For best results, add a layer of vaseline on top to seal the moisture and enjoy your extra soft lips the next morning.
Alternatively, mix the oil with some sugar and you have an easy but effective lip scrub. When using oil on your lips, always be extra careful to select an oil that is not irritating for your lips or skin. If you experience signs of irritation or unwanted side effects, gently remove the oil from your skin and consult a specialist.
How much face oil to apply
You only need a little bit of oil, so don’t use too much. One or two drops of oil is usually more than enough. If you notice that your face is too shiny after moisturising with oil, it is usually a sign you have used too much.
Also don’t be afraid to experiment and mix oils. Oils contain different antioxidants and other beneficial ingredients. You can combine them, experiment and make your own mixture.
Before doing any of this tough, remember to first do your research and find the best oil for your skin type, because using the right kind of oil can make a huge difference.
Should I use face oil if I have acne?
Typically acne products dry out your skin. That is a huge problem, because drying out your skin can make the acne much worse. When the skin gets stripped of its natural fats, the barrier function of the skin gets damaged and skin irritation and inflammation are more likely to occur.
Therefore using a natural oil on acne-prone skin is such a good idea. Double cleansing your skin could make a huge difference here.
Many people think that using oil on the skin can help regulate the oil production, but for most people with acne this is not true. This is because how much oil the oil glands in your skin produce is primarily regulated by your hormones. This is especially true for most people with acne. So whether you use an oil or not will probably not make much difference in this case.
Linoleic acid and acne
Acne patients often have low levels of linoleic acid on their skin. [1] Scientific evidence suggests that low levels of linoleic acid can be a contributing factor to the formation of acne. [2] Even though the evidence is not conclusive yet, it seems that applying products containing linoleic acid, can be beneficial for people with acne-prone skin.
On the other side, people with acne should avoid products containing oleic acid. Most oils contain both type of acids, but what is most important is the ratio between the two. So if you have acne and are looking for a skin oil, try to find one that has a relatively higher content of linoleic acid, than oleic acid. Oils that are good for people with acne-prone skin include grapeseed oil, rosehip see oil, primrose oil, raspberry seed oil and many more.
Coconut oil!
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, please stay away from coconut oil! Coconut oil is comedogenic, it can clog your pores and cause acne breakouts on people with the oily skin type. It works well for hair and body but really be careful with putting it on your face.
Why not use olive oil?
Olive oil typically contains high amounts of oleic acid. There is evidence that oleic acid can damage the skin barrier. This can make transepidermal water loss even worse. Olive oil does contain many other compounds that could be good for the skin, but its best to avoid it, because of the high concentrations of oleic acid.
When choosing a face oil, it is wise to look for an oil with a higher content of linoleic acid, compared to oleic acid.
How to store natural face oils?
Always make sure to store your oils in a cool, dry, dark place away from sunlight. Some oils must be stored in the fridge, while others can just be kept in your cupboard. If you are not sure what to do, the safe option is always to store the oils in the fridge.
The shelf life of the various oils differs slightly per oil. Some oils can be stored for a year or longer, while other oils, have a shelf life of just six months. Some oils also need to be kept refrigerated, while others don’t. Always check the instructions on the package of the product.
When an oil gets old, the compounds in it start to break down. These degraded compounds can damage and irritate the skin. So it is important to store your face oils properly and to remember that using an expired face oil can do more damage than not using a face oil at all!
The dangers of using oil on your skin
First of all, do not use a face oil if you are allergic to what it is made of.
Face oils can be very helpful for most people, but are certainly not for everyone! Certain skin conditions like rosacea, fungal acne and seborrheic dermatitis can be made worse by face oils.
Having that said, not all oils are the same. There are oils that can be beneficial for example to people with rosacea. But you really must do your research well to find them.
Be careful, this article is about the so called “non-fragrance oils”. These are very different from “essential oils” and are used very differently! Essential oils can lead to inflammation and other unwanted side effects, so be careful. The oils that this article is about, the non-fragrance oils, are normally not irritating and can make the skin smooth and soft.
Wrap up
So which oil is best for my skin type? It depends, but generally you need a dry oil if you have oily skin and a wet oil if you have dry skin. But be careful not to be allergic to the oil and be extra careful with oils if you have a skin condition.
And remember: when choosing a natural skin oil, always look for one that is cold pressed. This way most of the antioxidants and other healthy ingredients are preserved as much as possible.
Step by step:
Here is a quick guide on how to find the best face oil for your skin type:
Analyse your skin.
Decide if it makes sense for your situation to use oil.
Select the right category of oils for you: wet, dry, or semi-dry.
Choose an oil you like from that category.
Research more, until you are confident this oil is the right choice.
Try to find and buy a good quality, preferably cold-pressed oil.
Choose your favourite way to use the face oil.
Enjoy!
Remember that everyone is different. Even if you have found theoretically the best oil for your skin type, there is always a chance it may not do well on your skin.
Discontinue the use of oil if you experience any unwanted side effects.
This is how you choose the best oil for your skin type. Remember to take into account all the different variables mentioned above and to incorporate it in your skincare routine in a way that works for you.