Evening primrose oil: Skin benefits, How to use & Side effects
Evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis L. oleum) is renowned for its skin benefits. Centuries ago, the indigenous people of North America turned to evening primrose oil as a remedy for various skin ailments. Later when it was introduced to Europe, it quickly gained the name ‘king's cure-all’ and was a popular folk remedy.
Today, primrose oil is a popular cosmetic ingredient. But is there any scientific evidence to support the traditional uses of this oil for the skin? Or is it just another hyped beauty ingredient? Let’s find out!
Fatty acid profile of evening primrose oil
The fatty acid composition of evening primrose oil plays a significant role in its numerous benefits. Specifically, the oil is rich in linoleic acid and γ-linolenic acid, both of which are considered crucial for promoting healthy skin. These fatty acids contribute to the formation of ceramides, possess antioxidant properties, and exhibit anti-inflammatory effects, all of which are essential for maintaining skin health.
Here is the approximate fatty acid content of primrose oil (1):
|
Fatty acid |
Percentage in Evening primrose oil (%) |
|
Poly-unsaturated fatty acids |
|
|
Linoleic Acid |
73.88 ± 0.09 |
|
Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA) |
9.24 ± 0.05 |
|
Mono-unsaturated fatty acids |
|
|
Oleic Acid |
6.93 ± 0.02 |
|
Vaccenic Acid |
0.81 ± 0.03 |
|
Eicosenoic Acid |
0.55 ± 0.01 |
|
Saturated fatty acids |
|
|
Palmitic Acid |
6.31 ± 0.14 |
|
Stearic Acid |
1.88 ± 0.02 |
|
Eicosanoic Acid (arachidic acid) |
0.31 ± 0.03 |
|
Behenic Acid |
0.10 ± 0.01 |
The actual percentages of fatty acids in primrose oil can vary depending on many factors, including genetic diversity, season, where the oil is cultivated, and the extraction method used.
Evening primrose oil benefits for the skin
The benefits of evening primrose oil for the skin include:
1. Strong antioxidant
Evening primrose oil contains different forms of vitamin E, also commonly known as tocopherols (2). These compounds have a strong antioxidant activity.
Tocopherols can combat the damage that free radicals can do to your skin (3).
These tocopherols can also help prevent inflammation by protecting the lipid cell membranes from oxidation (4).
Some in-vitro studies suggest that vitamin E may not only play a role in the protection, but even contribute to the repair of the cell membranes (5).
2. Anti-inflammatory properties
Various studies have shown that some of the components of primrose oil can have anti-inflammatory and even immunomodulatory effects (6).
The γ-linolenic acid found in this oil may be able to suppress inflammation (7).
Because of their antioxidant effects, the vitamin E derivatives found in primrose oil, could help prevent damage caused by inflammation (8).
Deficiency of linoleic acid can result is its replacement with oleic acid in the formation of skin ceramide (9). This in turn can cause inflammation in the skin (10). So it is very important for your skin cells to have sufficient linoleic acid.
3. Improve skin hydration and elasticity
Primrose oil contains lots of linoleic acid. This fatty acid is an important component of the ceramides in our skin and therefore it plays an important role in maintaining the protective lipid layer of the skin (11).
Ceramides are essential for the formation of the epidermal barrier and the prevention of water loss (12).
γ-linolenic acid is essential for the proper functioning of the skin barrier, but the skin is not able to synthesise it. Therefore supplements containing this fatty acid, may promote a healthy skin.
Research shows, that people taking primrose oil supplements for 12 weeks, have significantly better skin than the people taking placebo. Many parameters including elasticity, moisture, firmness, fatigue resistance, and roughness had significantly improved after taking the supplements (13).
Studies show that short-term supplementation with linoleic acid is probably not effective (14). If you want to see results, you would likely have to use it for a longer period of time.
4. Relieve itching and dry skin
Primrose oil may be especially useful for some people who are dealing with dry skin and itching.
The Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products of the European medicinal agency concluded that evening primrose oil can be used for the relief of itching and dry skin (15).
Important to note, is that this was decided based on the long-standing traditional use of the oil for dry skin conditions. There is not enough clinical evidence to actually support this use.
5. Improve atopic dermatitis symptoms
People with atopic dermatitis may be deficient in linoleic and γ-linolenic acid (16). Therefore supplementing with an oil that has a high content of these fatty acids, such as primrose oil, could be beneficial.
A double-blind study from 2005, emphasised that the gamma-linolenic acid found in primrose oil is essential for the optimal structure and function of the skin (17).
A clinical study on atopic dermatitis patients revealed something very interesting: after taking evening primrose oil supplements for 12 weeks, some of the patients had increased levels of gamma-linolenic acid in their blood plasma, but not all. Interestingly, those who had managed to elevate their γ-linolenic acid levels through the supplements, had a notable improvement in their symptoms of atopic dermatitis (18).
A small placebo-controlled trial showed that taking evening primrose oil for 5 months can be beneficial for atopic dermatitis patients (19).
But not all researchers agree with this. A meta-analysis that combined the results from several studies, concluded that there is not enough evidence to support the efficacy of primrose oil for atopic dermatitis (20).
6. Reduce Isotretinoin side effects
Isotretinoin is commonly prescribed for people with severe forms of acne, but it can cause many unwanted side effects, including rashes and dry skin.
Evening primrose oil seems to be beneficial for people taking isotretinoin, as it may be able to reduce its side effects (21).
A Korean study evaluated the clinical efficacy and safety of primrose oil supplements, for the prevention of side effects caused by isotretinoin (22). After 8 weeks, the people who took the supplements, lost less skin moisture compared to the control group.
Still more research is necessary to investigate to what extent primrose oil is beneficial for people with acne.
What skin types benefit from evening primrose oil?
Most skin types can benefit from this oil, including:
Skin with acne
Many people with acne, often use very harsh and drying products on their skin. This could cause all kinds of irritation and damaged skin barrier. A lightweight oil with anti-inflammatory properties may be beneficial in such cases.
An added benefit is that this oil usually absorbs quite fast into the skin.
In addition, people with acne, sometimes use isotretinoin or other retinols, which can have unwanted side effects. As mentioned above, primrose oil may be able to reduce these side effects.
Sensitive or irritated skin
Because of its potential anti-inflammatory properties, primrose oil is a good option for people with sensitive or irritated skin. Its linoleic acid content and its importance in building and sustaining the barrier function of the skin, may be especially beneficial for people with irritated skin.
Dry skin
People with dry skin often benefit from all kinds of skin oils. This particular oil absorbs relatively quickly into the skin, because of its high content in unsaturated fatty acids. So, unless you apply too much, your skin should not feel oily afterwards.
Since this is such a light oil, you would need to apply an occlusive, such as a regular moisturiser or a heavier oil on top.
Good for ageing skin
But not only young people, and people with acne, may benefit from primrose oil. Evening primrose oil may be good for aged skin as well.
The combination of evening primrose and sweet almond oil, may be very beneficial for aged dry skin according to a recent study (23). Topical application of a product containing these oils, resulted in improved hydration and epidermal barrier function.
If you decide to use this oil on ageing skin, do not forget to apply a regular moisturiser on top of it to seal the moisture and active compounds in your skin.
How to use evening primrose oil on skin?
For best results, apply on your face while it is still damp after your morning shower, and apply a regular moisturiser on top of that to help seal the hydration and the active compounds on your skin.
According to the EMA, you can apply the oil 2-3 times per day on your skin (24).
Side effects of evening primrose oil for the skin
This oil is generally safe to use, but may still have some unwanted side effects including:
tiredness
impaired concentration
diarrhoea
abdominal cramps
itching
allergic reactions
The potential side effects, also depend on whether a person is taking the oil as a supplement or applying it topically.
According to the EMA guidelines, evening primrose oil supplements should only be used in adults and adolescents over the age of 12 (25). The EMA does not restrict the cutaneous use of this oil for children (26).
Precautions
When you apply primrose oil on the skin, there are several things you should keep in mind (source):
Do not apply anywhere near the eyes.
Do not apply on wounds or broken skin.
Do not apply simultaneously with latex products.
Avoid UV-exposure.
If you have epilepsy, consult a doctor if you can use it.
Safety during pregnancy and breast feeding is not established, so avoid using the oil during this period.
Evening primrose oil alternatives
Other natural oils, that are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids and absorb quickly into the skin, like primrose, include:
Black seed oil
Borage oil
Chia seed oil
Emu oil
Goji Berry oil
Grapeseed oil
Jojoba oil
Kukui nut oil
Perilla oil
Pomegranate seed oil
Raspberry seed oil
Rosehip oil
Sea Buckthorn oil
Strawberry seed oil
Watermelon seed oil
Wheat germ oil
These oils are often called dry oils. This is because they absorb quickly into the skin, without leaving a greasy residue. These oils typically have a low comedogenic rating and are suitable for people prone to acne breakouts.
Wrap up
Oenothera biennis L. oleum, more commonly known as evening primrose oil, has many potential benefits for the skin.
These include: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, skin hydration, improving elasticity, relieving itchy and dry/atopic skin, and reducing the side effects of isotretinoin.